I’ll let you know when I get to 1700 and again when I get to 2000+ and destroy desultory 1700s..
<Comment deleted by user>
300+
@xiaoban said in #1:
> I does not feel the gap between rating of 1400 and 1700 is as much as that from 1700 to 2000. When I played against 2000 rated players, I get crushed easily. What is the main difference between them? what should I do to reach that level?
1700 players make some strategically awkward moves, and make more tactical mistakes. A few strategically slow or meh moves and I have the initiative and a good position. Then the pressure builds and they eventually make a tactical mistake in a bad position and now I have usually a positional and a material advantage, which is enough to bring home the win.
Don't give us material gifts or positional gifts (outposts, etc). I like the presents, but be less like Santa, and more like the Grinch.
> I does not feel the gap between rating of 1400 and 1700 is as much as that from 1700 to 2000. When I played against 2000 rated players, I get crushed easily. What is the main difference between them? what should I do to reach that level?
1700 players make some strategically awkward moves, and make more tactical mistakes. A few strategically slow or meh moves and I have the initiative and a good position. Then the pressure builds and they eventually make a tactical mistake in a bad position and now I have usually a positional and a material advantage, which is enough to bring home the win.
Don't give us material gifts or positional gifts (outposts, etc). I like the presents, but be less like Santa, and more like the Grinch.
@Le_Patzer83
I think you are right. I'm quite bad at positional themed games. I saw many 2000+ rated players make lots of maneuvering pieces and pawns until make tactical breaks. If I were to improve on that, what should I do? Take positional openings (like scheveningen instead of dragon)? is there any instructive study in lichess on that?
I think you are right. I'm quite bad at positional themed games. I saw many 2000+ rated players make lots of maneuvering pieces and pawns until make tactical breaks. If I were to improve on that, what should I do? Take positional openings (like scheveningen instead of dragon)? is there any instructive study in lichess on that?
@xiaoban said in #15:
> @Le_Patzer83
> I think you are right. I'm quite bad at positional themed games. I saw many 2000+ rated players make lots of maneuvering pieces and pawns until make tactical breaks. If I were to improve on that, what should I do? Take positional openings (like scheveningen instead of dragon)? is there any instructive study in lichess on that?
Lots of playing and lots of studying. You need to play to develop a feel for positions. Start learning about the typical plans for both sides in the middle game structures that are common in your games/come about from your repertoire. Learn how to properly evaluate danger levels. Learn when it is advantageous to release the tension in a position and when it is best to maintain it. Lots of times against 1700-1800 level players I find they release the tension prematurely and give themselves a difficult position, or they trade off the wrong minor piece and make my life easier, etc. Study middlegame structures. Understand how the pawns and pieces correlate to one another in a given position, especially in those common middle game structures that arise in your games. Do you know when the IQP is good for example? Do you know when it is bad? Where do your minor pieces belong when you have the IQP? I'll give you an example. If you are white and you have the IQP, you are doing yourself a HUGE disservice if you trade off your light squared bishop! If I have the black pieces and I can blockade the pawn and swap off your light squared bishop, I will be feeling great about my position 99% of the time (you will have essentially traded off a piece that is critical to your attack and I'll cruise to a nice endgame where the IQP becomes a liability). Stuff like that. And of course tactics! Way too many games are thrown away by tactical errors. This will be an ongoing challenge at any level, but if you want to move your rating up quickly... start punishing your opponents tactical mistakes and stop giving freebies.
Analyze your games without the engine, and only AFTER bring in the engine. Play slow games so you dont reinforce bad habits. Study the endgame. This is huge not only for winning games in the endgame, but also for knowing when a particular trade might be a good idea, if it steers the game towards an advantageous endgame. You'll also know when to avoid middle game trades if you see that it will lead you to a losing endgame or one where your opponent will have all the chances. Being able to recognize these sorts of things will help you properly analyze a position, and make much better strategic decisions.
Lastly, you can never do enough spaced repetition tactical training. Become a tactical monster and I promise you, your rating will really jump. Combine that with some serious endgame skills and you will see even better results. It wont come fast, but make the effort and you will be rewarded. I hope this helps.
> @Le_Patzer83
> I think you are right. I'm quite bad at positional themed games. I saw many 2000+ rated players make lots of maneuvering pieces and pawns until make tactical breaks. If I were to improve on that, what should I do? Take positional openings (like scheveningen instead of dragon)? is there any instructive study in lichess on that?
Lots of playing and lots of studying. You need to play to develop a feel for positions. Start learning about the typical plans for both sides in the middle game structures that are common in your games/come about from your repertoire. Learn how to properly evaluate danger levels. Learn when it is advantageous to release the tension in a position and when it is best to maintain it. Lots of times against 1700-1800 level players I find they release the tension prematurely and give themselves a difficult position, or they trade off the wrong minor piece and make my life easier, etc. Study middlegame structures. Understand how the pawns and pieces correlate to one another in a given position, especially in those common middle game structures that arise in your games. Do you know when the IQP is good for example? Do you know when it is bad? Where do your minor pieces belong when you have the IQP? I'll give you an example. If you are white and you have the IQP, you are doing yourself a HUGE disservice if you trade off your light squared bishop! If I have the black pieces and I can blockade the pawn and swap off your light squared bishop, I will be feeling great about my position 99% of the time (you will have essentially traded off a piece that is critical to your attack and I'll cruise to a nice endgame where the IQP becomes a liability). Stuff like that. And of course tactics! Way too many games are thrown away by tactical errors. This will be an ongoing challenge at any level, but if you want to move your rating up quickly... start punishing your opponents tactical mistakes and stop giving freebies.
Analyze your games without the engine, and only AFTER bring in the engine. Play slow games so you dont reinforce bad habits. Study the endgame. This is huge not only for winning games in the endgame, but also for knowing when a particular trade might be a good idea, if it steers the game towards an advantageous endgame. You'll also know when to avoid middle game trades if you see that it will lead you to a losing endgame or one where your opponent will have all the chances. Being able to recognize these sorts of things will help you properly analyze a position, and make much better strategic decisions.
Lastly, you can never do enough spaced repetition tactical training. Become a tactical monster and I promise you, your rating will really jump. Combine that with some serious endgame skills and you will see even better results. It wont come fast, but make the effort and you will be rewarded. I hope this helps.
During the transition from 1700 in my twenties to 2000 in my thirties, my facial hair thickened considerably. A good beard to rub is the difference IMO.
The main difference between ratings:
100-500 Know basic rules
500-900 Keep pieces protected at all times.
900-1300 Can spot basic tactics and make less blunders in 1 move
1300-1700 Good tactics, opening knowledge up to 10 moves and basic endgame skills.
1700-2000 Good tactics, opening understanding, good endgame skill and decent understanding of plans (middlegame, maneuvering, playing slowly, PAWN BREAKS)
2000-2400 Great tactics, deep understanding of the opening, punish inaccuracies early on, good endgame skill, really good understanding of plans in the middlegame.
100-500 Know basic rules
500-900 Keep pieces protected at all times.
900-1300 Can spot basic tactics and make less blunders in 1 move
1300-1700 Good tactics, opening knowledge up to 10 moves and basic endgame skills.
1700-2000 Good tactics, opening understanding, good endgame skill and decent understanding of plans (middlegame, maneuvering, playing slowly, PAWN BREAKS)
2000-2400 Great tactics, deep understanding of the opening, punish inaccuracies early on, good endgame skill, really good understanding of plans in the middlegame.
Rating is a measure of consistency, consistency of good moves within a game and across games. We can all play good moves, the 2000+ players do it more consistently. Maybe you already know everything you need to know to be 2000, its just a question of attention?
When I play a higher rated beserker in a tournament I find it narrows the rating gap about 150 points. Sorry if not completely on topic.
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